Monday, July 8, 2019

Blue Licks Battlefield State Park: Licking River/Heritage Loop (Blog Hike #756)

Trails: Licking River, Savannah, and Heritage Trails
Hike Location: Blue Licks Battlefield State Park
Geographic Location: north of Carlisle, KY (38.43202, -83.99307)
Length: 2.9 miles
Difficulty: 4/10 (Moderate)
Last Hiked: June 2019
Overview: A loop hike near a Revolutionary War battlefield.
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: From Paris, take US 68 north 22 miles to the signed park entrance on the left.  Turn left to enter the park, and drive the main park road to the Pioneer Museum.  Park in the parking lot in front of the museum.

The hike: Most history books will tell you that the American Revolutionary War ended when British General Charles Cornwallis surrendered to Patriot General George Washington in Yorktown on October 17, 1781.  While major military operations ended at that time, conflicts involving the British on America’s western frontier continued for many years thereafter.  One of those conflicts was the Battle of Blue Licks, which occurred in present-day northern Kentucky on August 17, 1782.
            Earlier that month, a group of 50 British Loyalists allied with 300 American Indians had come from present-day Ohio and attacked Bryan Station, a frontier settlement near present-day Lexington.  When they learned that Kentucky militiamen were on their way to relieve the settlement, the Loyalists and Indians withdrew to the northeast to return to Ohio.  Led by John Todd and Daniel Boone, the Kentucky militiamen decided to pursue the Loyalists, and they caught up to them at a spring and salt lick on the Licking River known as Lower Blue Licks.
            Just before the battle, Daniel Boone voiced concerns that they were being led into a trap, and his concerns turned out to be justified.  After crossing the Licking River and advancing up a hill, the British and American Indians attacked from concealed positions in ravines on the other side of the hill.  The attack was devastating on the Kentucky militiamen: nearly half of the militiamen were killed or taken captive.  Daniel Boone survived, but the dead included John Todd and Israel Boone, Daniel Boone’s son.  The remaining militiamen managed to retreat to Bryan Station.
            The site of the Battle of Blue Licks became Kentucky’s fifth state park in 1927, when local citizens donated the land to the Kentucky State Parks Commission.  The park today offers a nice 32-room lodge, a 51-site campground, a boat ramp on the Licking River, some athletic fields, some picnic areas, an interesting Pioneer Museum, and 4 hiking trails totaling 3.5 miles.  The hike described here uses most of these trails, and it forms a grand loop tour of the park’s grounds.
            Two points of interest lie near the parking area.  The historic Pioneer Museum contains artifacts from life on the Kentucky frontier and offers an interesting video about the area.  Also, the battlefield is located uphill and to the left (north) of the museum, and it features a large stone monument in a sparsely treed grassy area.  No trails pass through these two areas, so you will want to check them out either before or after your hike.
Steps leading away from Pioneer Museum
            The only trail visible from the parking area is the Buffalo Trace Trail, which will be our return route.  To make the climbing easier, this hike starts on the Licking River Trail.  To find it, head down the stone steps that exit west, the opposite side of the parking lot from the Pioneer Museum.  Walk around a picnic shelter and enter the woods at a signed trailhead for the Licking River Trail.  Another sign tells you that this path was the route used by Daniel Boone and militiamen during their retreat to Bryan Station.
            The single track dirt trail descends via a moderate to steep grade on a somewhat rocky and rooty course.  This trail gets very slippery when wet, and I had to be very careful on this descent because I hiked here the morning after a thunderstorm softened the soil.  After descending 150 vertical feet over 0.25 miles, the trail deposits you on an asphalt road the park map calls River Road.  Turn left to continue the Licking River Trail.  The Licking River appears through the trees to the right here.
Licking River
            A short road walk brings you to the park’s boat ramp, where you need to continue south to leave the park road, walk through a small mowed grass area, and find where the Licking River Trail reenters the woods at another signed trailhead.  The trail crosses a wooden footbridge before curving left and climbing slightly to reach a three-way trail intersection.  The Savannah Trail going left leads to the park’s campground, but this hike turns right to start the Heritage Trail.  On my visit this trail was closed due to storm damage, so I had to take a detour via the park’s roads.
            The Heritage Trail crosses Old Maysville Road, which leads to the historic Licking River ford at Blue Licks, before passing under the US 68 bridge over the Licking River.  Next you pass Tanner Station, a reconstructed pioneer settlement founded by David Tanner to exploit the area’s salt licks.  For the next 0.5 miles the trail remains level as it passes through the Licking River’s floodplain.
Hiking bluff above Licking River

Pedestrian bridge over US 68
            2 miles into the hike, you begin a gradual to moderate climb up a wooded bluff that overlooks the river.  The trail comes close to US 68 for several hundred feet before crossing it on a fantastic stone, concrete, and steel pedestrian bridge.  Just after crossing the bridge, the Heritage Trail ends at a T-intersection with the Buffalo Trace Trail.  Turn right, and after another 1000 feet of gradual climbing you reach the parking lot for the Pioneer Museum, thus completing the hike.  Make sure you check out the museum and the battlefield before you leave if you have not already done so.

Saturday, July 6, 2019

Farbach-Werner Nature Preserve (Blog Hike #755)

Trail: Pin Oak Trail
Hike Location: Farbach-Werner Nature Preserve
Geographic Location: Colerain Township, OH (39.23435, -84.59333)
Length: 0.8 miles
Difficulty: 1/10 (Easy)
Last Hiked: June 2019
Overview: A short loop through a small nature preserve with many habitats.
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: On the northwest side of Cincinnati, take I-275 to US 27 (exit 33).  Exit and go south on US 27.  Drive US 27 south 1.6 miles to Poole Road and turn right on Poole Rd.  The signed preserve entrance is only a couple hundred feet ahead on the left.  Park in the only parking lot.

The hike: If you need further evidence that good things can come in small packages, then consider Farbach-Werner Nature Preserve.  At only 22 acres, the preserve is one of the smallest parks in the Great Parks of Hamilton County, but it provides a haven for birds and wildlife in highly developed Colerain Township.  The preserve contains many habitats including mature forest, succession forest, prairie, and pond/wetland.  Many local people come here often, and I enjoyed coming here many years ago when I lived in the Cincinnati area.
            The preserve came to be when Alfred and Elizabeth Werner donated the property in memory of their family, Bertha Werner and Ada Farbach.  Due to its size, the preserve has limited amenities, but it does offer a gift shop, a barn in which nature programs are held, and a butterfly garden.  In terms of trails, the preserve offers only one short trail, but the 0.8 mile Pin Oak Trail is a good one.  The Pin Oak Trail features a mixture of asphalt and gravel surface, and it explores all of the preserve’s many habitats.
Trailhead between barn and gift shop
            Start on the asphalt trail that passes between the gift shop on the left and the barn on the right.  Very quickly you pass the butterfly garden on the left.  I did not see many butterflies here on my early afternoon visit in late June, but there were some nice colors and odors coming from this garden.
            After crossing the service road that accesses the barn, the trail curves right and comes to a complicated intersection.  Turn left to continue southeast and arrive at a pair of small ponds.  I saw several turtles sitting on logs here, but recent rain had greatly swelled and muddied the pond’s water.
Rain-swollen pond
            As the trail passes around the ponds, the parking lot for Groesbeck United Methodist Church comes into view through the trees on the left.  At 0.3 miles, you reach another trail intersection.  To follow the longest loop possible, this hike turns left here to leave the asphalt and head into the southernmost corner of the preserve.
            The gravel trail makes a pair of right turns through the preserve’s nicest forest, which features some large maple and beech trees.  I saw numerous common woodland birds here including robins and cardinals in addition to small mammals such as squirrels and rabbits.  Where the gravel trail ends at the asphalt, turn left to continue the longest possible loop.
Tallgrass prairie

Wolf beech tree
            Next the asphalt trail passes through succession forest that features some dying red cedar trees before passing beside a small tallgrass prairie.  At the next intersection, turn left and soon pass a large beech tree.  This type of tree is known as a wolf tree: its low branches indicate it grew here before the younger surrounding trees prevented sunlight from reaching these low levels.  At the next intersection, turn left to pass the barn and return to the parking lot, thus completing the hike.

Thursday, July 4, 2019

Glenwood Gardens County Park (Blog Hike #754)

Trails: Garden and Wetland Loops
Hike Location: Glenwood Gardens County Park
Geographic Location: Woodlawn, OH (39.25755, -84.47172)
Length: 2.8 miles
Difficulty: 2/10 (Easy)
Last Hiked: June 2019
Overview: A semiloop through wet forest and prairie.
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: On the north side of Cincinnati, take I-75 to Glendale-Milford Road (exit 14).  Exit and go west on Glendale-Milford Rd.  Drive Glendale-Milford Rd. west 1.8 miles to SR 4.  Continue straight through the SR 4 traffic light, then angle left to enter Glenwood Gardens.  Park in the main and only parking lot.

The hike: Consisting of 335 acres of former farmland near the border of Glendale and Woodlawn, Glenwood Gardens is the newest park in the Great Parks of Hamilton County (formerly known as the Hamilton County Park District).  The park was established in 1993 when the Burchenal family donated their farm to the Park District, but it did not open to the public until 2001.  I lived in Cincinnati for the first 28 years of my life, and when I moved I had hiked every trail in the Hamilton County Park District that existed at that time.  I returned 14 years later to hike these new trails, and I found Glenwood Gardens to be an excellent addition to the Great Parks of Hamilton County.
            Nature takes center stage at Glenwood Gardens, as the park features only some formal gardens for amenities.  The Cotswold Visitor Centre is the old Burchenal residence, and the historic stone building is worth a stop if it is open on your visit.  Unfortunately, the Visitor Centre was closed when I came here on a humid Monday morning in late June.  The Gardens feature two interconnecting loop trails, the asphalt Garden Loop and the gravel Wetlands Loop.  This hike uses both of these loops to form a 2.8 mile grand tour of the gardens.
View from Cotswold Overlook
            Walk through the information kiosk beside the Visitor Centre to reach the Cotswold Overlook, a northwest-facing viewpoint that provides a nice overview of the park’s meadows and woodlands.  Next you pass the Legacy Garden, a small formal garden that featured many colorful flowering plants on my visit.  Past the Legacy Garden, the asphalt trail descends on a gradual grade to reach the intersection that forms the Garden Loop.  Turn right to start hiking the Garden Loop counterclockwise.
            The Garden Loop heads west through sunny prairie, and it features distance marker plaques embedded in the pavement every 0.1 miles.  Just past the 0.3 mile marker, the Wetland Loop exits right.  To see all the gardens have to offer, turn right to start the Wetland Loop.
Hiking the Wetland Loop
            The asphalt turns to gravel just before a side trail exits right to reach the park’s service road, which sits just a couple hundred feet to the right.  At 0.9 miles, the trail curves left as it crosses the West Fork of Mill Creek on a nice footbridge.  Sunny prairie has now been replaced by wet lowland forest, which is dominated by sycamore and basswood trees.
West Fork of Mill Creek
            Next comes a gradual climb, and at 1.2 miles you reach another trail intersection.  The Wetland “Loop” is actually a figure-eight route that consists of two loops, and this intersection is the pinch of the figure-eight.  We will return to this intersection and continue straight on the larger lobe of the figure-eight in a few minutes, but first turn right to hike the shorter lobe.  When the trail splits a few hundred feet later, turn left to hike the shorter lobe clockwise.  An oddly-placed garbage can sits at this intersection.
            The gradual climb continues as you enter young forest with a dense understory and pass a small pond.  1.5 miles into the hike, you reach the highest point in Glenwood Gardens and another overlook.  This viewpoint looks southwest into Trillium Trails Wildflower Preserve, a forested tract of land that has been under public stewardship for much longer than Glenwood Gardens.  A bench here provides a nice place to sit and rest near the midpoint of this hike.
Looking into Trillium Trails
            Past the bench, a gradual descent takes you above a larger pond that sits downhill to the left before closing the shorter lobe.  Retrace your steps to the longer lobe, then turn right to continue the longer lobe.  The gradual descent continues until you reach the lowest point on this hike, where the Wetlands Loop crosses the West Fork of Mill Creek on another excellent footbridge.
Cotswold Visitor Centre
            Just after crossing the bridge, you reach the end of the Wetlands Loop at another intersection with the asphalt Garden Loop.  Turn right to continue a counterclockwise journey around the Garden Loop.  An excellent view of the Cotswold Visitor Centre appears uphill and to the right as you round the final curve of the Garden Loop.  After closing the Garden Loop at 2.6 miles, turn right and retrace your steps uphill to reach the parking lot and complete the hike.

Tuesday, July 2, 2019

William Harbin Park: Harbin Park Path (Blog Hike #753)

Trail: Harbin Park Path
Hike Location: William Harbin Park
Geographic Location: west side of Fairfield, OH (39.31849, -84.57511)
Length: 1.1 miles
Difficulty: 1/10 (Easy)
Last Hiked: June 2019
Overview: An out-and-back on asphalt trail passing one of the best views in Fairfield.
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: On the north side of Cincinnati, take I-275 to US 127/Hamilton Avenue (exit 36).  Exit and go north on US 127.  Drive US 127 north 2 miles to Hunter Road and turn left on Hunter Rd.; there is a traffic light at this intersection.  Hunter Rd. dead-ends at William Harbin Park in 0.7 miles.  Park in the first parking lot on the right.

The hike: Owned and maintained by the City of Fairfield, William Harbin Park consists of 230 acres in the city’s highly residential southwest quadrant.  The park is the largest park in Fairfield, and it comes with numerous amenities including athletic fields, a disc golf course, several picnic shelters, and one of the area’s best sledding hills.  An overlook accessible by car provides a nice view from the top of this sledding hill.
View from top of sledding hill
            Harbin Park features three trails that are signed as “nature trails,” but these trails see a lot of mountain bike traffic because they were built by and for mountain bikers.  Partly due to the mountain bike traffic, partly due to some thunderstorms that were moving in from the west, and partly due to recent rain that left all lowland trails a muddy mess, I chose to hike the short paved Harbin Park Path described here.  As with most paved hike/bike paths, the Harbin Park Path does not make for the best hiking, but it provided a workable option given my constraints.  Also, while most bike paths are nearly flat rail-trails, the Harbin Park Path has just enough elevation change to help get the hiking muscles powered up after a long winter’s nap.
North trailhead: Harbin Park Path
            From the parking lot, walk across the park road and look to the right for the signed start of the asphalt bike path.  A picnic shelter sits to the left here.  The trail embarks on a general southward course with gradual ups and downs.  Planted trees line the asphalt, and stone plaques indicate that some of these trees were planted as gifts or memorials.
            The park’s disc golf course crosses the trail as a blue water tower comes into view ahead and to the right.  A gazebo sits off to the left here, and a 1.4 mile fitness trail passes through the grassy area to the left.  I would have considered adding the fitness trail to my hike, but some thunder started rumbling in the distance when I reached this point.
Water tower
            Past the water tower, the trail comes very close to the park’s west boundary, which is marked by a line of honeysuckle shrubs.  A moderate descent brings you to the trail’s south end at a maintenance building on Gray Road, thus marking the end of the bike path.  Turn around and walk 0.5 miles back to the parking lot that contains your car.  The overlook at the top of the sledding hill sits just uphill from this parking lot, and it makes a nice short detour either before or after your hike.  The thunderstorm that threatened me during my hike unleashed a torrent of rain as I was driving out of the park.

Saturday, June 29, 2019

Brukner Nature Center (Blog Hike #752)

Trails: Pinelands, Trillium Valley, Buckeye Valley, and Hickory Ridge Trails
Hike Location: Brukner Nature Center
Geographic Location: west of Troy, OH (40.01645, -84.31713)
Length: 2.3 miles
Difficulty: 3/10 (Easy/Moderate)
Last Hiked: June 2019
Overview: A double loop through numerous ravines and along numerous ridges.
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: North of Dayton, take I-75 to SR 55 (exit 73).  Exit and go west on SR 55.  Drive SR 55 west 2.4 miles to Horseshoe Bend Road and take a soft right on Horseshoe Bend Rd.  Drive Horseshoe Bend Rd. 2.1 miles to the signed Center entrance on the right.  Turn right to enter the Center, and drive the entrance road to the Center’s main parking lot in front of the Interpretive Building.  You need to pay a small entrance fee in the Interpretive Building before starting the hike.

The hike: Private not-for-profit Brukner Nature Center protects 165 acres of ridges and ravines along the east bank of the Stillwater River.  The Center is named for Clayton J. Brukner, who owned the WACO Aircraft Company of nearby Troy, OH.  WACO was one of the most successful pre-World War II civil aircraft manufacturers.  A lover of nature, Brukner purchased this land for its scenic value in 1933, and in 1967 he unveiled plans to build the Nature Center that now bears his name.  The Center opened in 1974.
            Brukner Nature Center features an excellent Interpretive Building that offers several bird and wildlife viewing areas.  6 miles of hiker-only trails wind through the grounds.  Unfortunately, when I came here just after the area had received large amounts of rainfall, several of the trails were impassable due to flooding.  Thus, the route described here traverses most of the trails that were passable on my visit, and it features a nice mixture of ravines, ridges, woods, and meadows.
Trailhead: Pinelands Trail
            From the front door of the Interpretive Building, walk across the parking lot to find the trailhead for the single-track dirt Pinelands Trail, which immediately heads into the woods on an eastward course.  Three separate trailheads are located on this side of the parking lot.  The Pinelands trailhead is the one on the left; it is marked by a wooden post with a green stripe.
            After only a few hundred feet on the Pinelands Trail, you reach a trail intersection marked as post #14.  Major trail intersections are numbered on the park map and marked on the ground with numbered wooden posts.  Turn left here to begin the Trillium Valley Trail.
Bridge over eroded watercourse
The Trillium Valley Trail crosses the park entrance road before crossing an eroded watercourse on a high steel bridge with wooden deck.  Next comes a short but fairly steep descent as the trail begins following the watercourse downstream.  The Interpretive Building is visible atop the hill to the left here.
            After crossing the stream 5 times via bridges, you reach post #12, where the Buckeye Valley Loop exits right.  The Buckeye Valley Loop is a 1.1 mile add-on lollipop loop that explores a very pleasant ravine, so turn right to begin the Buckeye Valley Loop.  The Buckeye Valley Loop climbs gradually along the small but steep-sided creek.  I saw many deer prints in the soft dirt along this creek, and further up the ravine I saw some of the deer that made these prints, including a doe and two fawns.
Hiking up Buckeye Valley
            Ignore the steep Wren Run Trail that exits left, and at 0.5 miles reach post #10, which marks the intersection that forms the loop portion of the Buckeye Valley Loop.  To make the climbing easier, this description continues straight and uses the trail going right as its return route, thus hiking the loop clockwise.  The gradual climb up the ravine continues, and the Center’s northwest boundary comes close on the left.
            At 0.9 miles, the trail curves right for the final short but steep climb out of the ravine.  Now on a drier ridgetop course, the land drops off steeply to the left as you head out a narrow finger ridge.  Hickory, oak, and maple trees dominate this ridge.  1.2 miles into the hike, you reach a ravine overlook where the trail switches back to the right.  A primitive but effective wooden staircase is descended just before the loop is closed.  Turn left to head back to the Trillium Valley Trail, then turn right to continue the Trillium Valley Trail.
Wooden staircase at end of Buckeye Valley Loop
            Soon you reach post #8 and the start of the Swamp Boardwalk, which exits right.  The Swamp Boardwalk offers a short 0.5 mile loop on wooden boardwalk through a wetland, but recent rains had the boardwalk underwater on my visit.  Thus, I continued straight to reach post #7 and a major trail intersection with options going left and right.  The option going right is the 0.8 mile Stillwater Loop that traverses bottomland forest along its namesake river, but it like the Swamp Boardwalk was underwater.  Therefore, my only option was to turn left and begin the Hickory Ridge Trail.
            The trail climbs moderately to reach post #6, which marks the intersection that forms the Hickory Ridge Trail’s loop.  This hike turns right to start hiking the loop counterclockwise.  A little more climbing brings you to the edge of the Stillwater River valley, which drops to your right.  The elevation change puts the treetops from the valley at eyelevel, thus making this trail an excellent venue for bird watching.
Stillwater River valley overlook
            Ignore a short-cut trail that exits left.  Reach an overlook of the Stillwater River valley at 1.9 miles.  Trees block any view of the river, but a bench makes a good place to rest and observe birds and wildlife.  Next the trail briefly joins what appears to be an old road before reaching post #1, where you need to turn left to continue the Hickory Ridge Trail’s loop.
Cattail Pond
            Pass two more numbered trail intersections to reach a small prairie and post #5.  Turn right at post #5 to begin the Pond Trail, the final leg of this hike.  The short Pond Trail passes two ponds: Catface Pond and Cattail Pond.  Both ponds featured a lot of algae, but Cattail Pond also contained a large number of bullfrogs that were sounding off on my visit.  The Interpretive Building parking lot lies just past Cattail Pond.
Iddings House
            Before you leave, there is one other place near the Interpretive Building that is worth a visit.  Just left (south) of the Interpretive Building stands the Iddings Log House.  Built by Benjamin Iddings in 1804, the Iddings Log House is the oldest structure on its original site in Miami County.  The log house adds an historical gem to the natural treasures you have already seen at Brukner Nature Center.

Monday, June 17, 2019

Vogel State Park: Bear Hair Gap and Lake Trahlyta Trails (Blog Hike #751)

Trails: Bear Hair Gap and Lake Trahlyta Trails
Hike Location: Vogel State Park
Geographic Location: south of Blairsville, GA (34.76617, -83.92358)
Length: 5.9 miles
Difficulty: 8/10 (Moderate/Difficult)
Last Hiked: June 2019
Overview: Two loops, one long and hard to a high overlook, and one short and easy around Lake Trahlyta to Trahlyta Falls.
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: From Blairsville, drive south on US 19 for 10.2 miles to the signed park entrance on the right.  Turn right to enter the park, and pay the small park entrance fee.  Drive the main park road 0.4 miles to the Visitor Center.  Park in the Visitor Center parking lot or in the larger lot across the road beside Lake Trahlyta.

The hike: Established in 1931, Vogel State Park is the second oldest state park in Georgia and one of two original state parks in Georgia’s state park system (the other being Indian Springs State Park).  The depression-era Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) built many of the park’s structures including the dam that forms the park’s lake, Lake Trahlyta.  The park’s location at the base of Blood Mountain, the highest point on Georgia’s section of the Appalachian Trail, keeps temperatures regionally cool even during the summer.  The park is named for August H. Vogel and Fred Vogel, Jr., who donated the 233 acres to form the park.
            Vogel State Park offers several excellent amenities, including a 103-site developed campground, 35 cabins, fishing and swimming in Lake Trahlyta, a mini-golf course, and 18 miles of trails.  The park has three main hiking trails: the 1 mile Trahlyta Lake Trail, the 4.3 mile Bear Hair Gap Trail, and the 12.9 mile Coosa Backcountry Trail.  With more than a mile of vertical rise, the long and rugged Coosa Backcountry Trail is best hiked as a multi-day backpack.  The other two trails could be hiked independently, but they combine to form a manageable 5.9 mile barbell-shaped route.  Such is the hike described here.
            To do the harder loop first, this hike starts with the Bear Hair Gap Trail.  From the lakeside parking lot, walk southwest past the Visitor Center along the asphalt road that leads through the cabin area to the park’s campground.  After 0.25 miles of road walking, you reach the signed trailhead for the Byron Reece, Bear Hair Gap, and Coosa Backcountry Trails on the right.  There is nowhere to park at the trailhead, so anyone who hikes any of these three trails has to start with a road walk.  This parking arrangement seems suboptimal, but it is what it is.
Vogel State Park trailhead
            The common entrance trail climbs a few stone steps before beginning a gradual ascent with cascading Burnett Branch downhill to the left.  Maple trees dominate the forest at this elevation, and even though some pine trees appear in the forest this hike would be a nice fall leaf peeping hike.  At 0.4 miles, the signed Byron Herbert Reece Trail exits right.  The Byron Herbert Reece Trail forms a short but moderately steep 0.8 mile loop, and it makes a nice add-on if you want some more forest hiking after completing the Bear Hair Gap Trail.  Continue straight to remain on the combined Bear Hair Gap and Coosa Backcountry Trail.
            After passing a wooden overlook platform that overlooks nothing in particular and crossing Burnett Branch, a gradual climb brings you to a major trail intersection.  The unmarked trail going left leads to the campground, and the trails going straight and right form the loop portion of the Bear Hair Gap Trail.  To make the climbing a little easier, this description turns right here and uses the trail going straight as its return route, thus hiking the loop counterclockwise.
Trail intersection
            After only a couple hundred more feet, the Bear Hair Gap and Coosa Backcountry Trails part ways just after you exit Vogel State Park and enter Chattahoochee National Forest.  You need to angle softly left here to stay on the Bear Hair Gap Trail.  The trail markings here can be confusing.  The Bear Hair Gap Trail is marked with painted green diamonds and the Coosa Backcountry Trail is marked with painted green rectangles, but the corners on some of the diamonds are rubbing off, thus making them look like rectangles.  Fortunately, a brown carsonite post bearing the number 110, the national forest’s designation for the Bear Hair Gap Trail, also sits at this intersection.
Climbing toward Vogel Overlook
            For the next 1.5 miles the wide single-track dirt and rock trail climbs on a moderate to steep grade as it gains just over 700 vertical feet of elevation.  Three small creeks are crossed via bridge or rock hop, but the wet areas around them may make the crossings more comfortable if you are wearing waterproof boots.  At 1.8 miles, you reach the signed spur trail for the Vogel Overlook.  Turn left to reach the overlook.
            One final steep section brings you to the overlook.  The view from the east-facing overlook is somewhat encumbered by trees, but even during the leafy months Lake Trahlyta is visible almost 900 feet below.  On a clear day, Brasstown Bald, the highest point in Georgia, is visible to the east.  You have earned these views, so take some time, have a trail snack, and see what you can see.
View from Vogel Overlook
            Continuing around the Bear Hair Gap Trail’s loop, a pleasant section of sidehill trail ensues as the trail maintains a near constant elevation with the hillside dropping to your left and Slaughter Mountain rising to your right.  Large amounts of paw paw and sassafras grow in the understory up here.  At 2.6 miles, you rock hop rhododendron-choked Wolf Creek just before the Coosa Backcountry Trail re-enters from the right.  Stay left to remain on the combined Bear Hair Gap and Coosa Backcountry Trails.
            The next 0.3 miles is a steep rocky descent that loses over 250 feet of elevation.  The trail weaves around several cabin-sized boulders, and the terrain is scenic but rugged.  Just past 3 miles, you cross Wolf Creek again, this time just below a small waterfall.
Descending through boulders
            After some equally steep but less rocky descending, you cross from the national forest back into the state park.  Some picnic shelters and the state park campground can be seen downhill and through the trees to the right.  The last mile of the loop is a rolling course that traces the base of Slaughter Mountain, which rises to the left and falls to the right. 
            At 4.1 miles, you close the loop.  Retrace your steps down the entrance trail to the park road, then turn left on the park road to return to the lakeside parking lot that contains your car at 4.7 miles, thus completing the first loop and your tour of the park’s backcountry.  To also see the park’s developed area around Lake Trahlyta, consider adding on the Trahlyta Lake Trail, which forms a 1 mile loop around its namesake lake and offers a short spur to an attractive waterfall.
Trailhead: Trahlyta Lake Trail
            The Trahlyta Lake Trail starts at a signed trailhead at the southeast end of the lakeside parking area.  The trail crosses a wooden bridge over the main stream that feeds Lake Trahlyta to reach a picnic shelter, where the trail curves left to begin following the southeast bank of Lake Trahlyta.  The park road stays very close on the right, and a wooden boardwalk carries you over a wet area.
Blood Mountain behind Lake Trahlyta
            5.2 miles into the hike, you reach the lake’s dam and spillway area.  Looking to the left across the lake provides this park’s signature view of Blood Mountain behind Lake Trahlyta.  The overlook you stood at an hour or so ago also stands above the lake’s opposite shore.  Signs warn against descending the steep and slippery dam and spillway, so make sure you stay on the trail.
            Just after crossing the spillway, the signed spur trail to Trahlyta Falls exits right.  The spur trail descends on a gradual to moderate grade to reach an observation platform near the base of Trahlyta Falls.  Moderate volumes of water cascade for 35 feet over numerous rock layers, and the falls sound as pleasant as they look.
Trahlyta Falls
            Back on the Trahlyta Lake Trail, the trail drops off the dam and passes very close to a water treatment plant and SR 180 on the right.  The last segment of the trail follows a sewer line as it passes through a stand of holly.  The trail comes out at the end of the park’s cabin road.  A short road walk with the park’s swimming area on the left completes the loop of Lake Trahlyta and returns you to the lakeside parking area for a second and final time.

Friday, June 14, 2019

Brown County State Park: Trail #8 (Blog Hike #750)

Trail: Trail #8 (HHC Trail)
Hike Location: Brown County State Park
Geographic Location: Nashville, IN (39.17172, -86.25495)
Length: 4.3 miles
Difficulty: 6/10 (Moderate)
Last Hiked: May 2019
Overview: A lollipop loop through mature deciduous forest with several overlooks.
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: From the intersection of SR 46 and SR 135 in Nashville, take SR 46 west/south 2.2 miles to the signed West Entrance for Brown County State Park.  Turn left to enter the park, pay the entrance fee, and drive the West Entrance Road 1.1 miles to the West Lookout Tower.  Park in the parking lot beside the West Lookout Tower.

The hike: For most of the year Brown County State Park is a nice park with nice mature forest and nice amenities, but for a few weeks in the fall the park transforms into one of the most fantastic hiking destinations in the Midwest.  The steep hills south of Indianapolis provide the relief needed for good leaf peeping, and the park has numerous overlooks that provide broad views of the park’s dense broadleaf forest.  The park gets very crowded in the fall, but the brilliant yellow, orange, and red hues make the crowds worth enduring.  Although I did this hike on a seasonally cool morning in May, I endeavor to return in October to take in the leaf color for myself.
At 15,815 acres, Brown County State Park is the largest state park in Indiana.  The park was established in 1929, and the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) built many of the park’s buildings in the 1930’s.  The park offers nearly every amenity including multiple developed campgrounds totaling 401 campsites, multiple primitive campgrounds, an 84-room lodge, numerous cabins, and two small lakes for fishing.
In terms of trails, with 70 miles of bridle trails, 27 miles of mountain biking trails, and 20 miles of hiking trails, the park has something to offer everyone.  12 of the park’s trails are designated as hiker-only, but several of them are fairly short.  This hike describes the park’s longest hiking trail, Trail #8, which is also called the HHC Trail because it was rebuilt by the Hoosier Hikers Council between 2002 and 2007.  Trail #8 is an excellent way to sample the park’s leaf peeping opportunities, but it also offers a pleasant forest hike throughout the year.
Trail #8 trailhead
Before heading down the trail, take a few minutes to check out the West Lookout Tower.  Built by the CCC in 1936, the stone and wood tower gives a nice north-facing view through a gap in the trees.  This tower is a popular spot during leaf peeping season, and it gives your first taste of what this park has to offer.
West Lookout Tower

View from West Lookout Tower
Trail #8 heads east from the tower and enters the woods at a wooden post bearing the number 8.  For the first 1.5 miles the trail undulates gradually while staying very close to the park road on the left.  The initial segment is rather narrow with some poison ivy growing beside it, but the poison ivy is avoidable if you watch for it.
Hiking near the park road
An unmarked trail exits right just before the trail splits to form its loop at 0.4 miles.  Another post bearing the number 8 marks this intersection.  To make the climbing easier, this description continues straight and uses the trail going right as its return route, thus hiking the loop clockwise.  Staying near the park road, near 1 mile into the hike you approach the wooden Tulip Tree picnic shelter.  This area can be fairly wet and muddy, so take care where you step.
Just past the shelter, you need to stay left where a trail that short-cuts the loop exits right.  Some more minor undulations and some gradual climbing bring you to Hesitation Point, which is located to the left across the park road.  As its name implies, Hesitation Point is one of the park’s best and widest vistas, and low hills ripple off to the north as far as the eye can see.  Some benches beckon you to sit, rest, and take in the view, but the vista’s location right on the park road means you will not be alone here.
Hesitation Point
Trail #8 leaves Hesitation Point to the south (the same side of the park road from which it entered) and begins its descent toward Ogle Lake.  A mountain bike trail goes to the left here in the same general direction, so make sure you stay on the hiking trail.  The trail descends a long wooden staircase built by the HHC as part of their mid 2000’s upgrade.  The first 0.25 miles of this descent loses 200 vertical feet of elevation, but once the bottom of the ravine is reached the grade becomes rather gradual.
Hiking down the ravine
The next 0.7 miles crosses back and forth over a small creek as the trail heads southwest down the ravine.  All of the creek crossings have bridges, and despite some wet areas the hiking in the ravine is fairly easy.  Whereas oak trees dominated the ridgetop, maple and beech trees dominate the ravine.
At 2.5 miles, you reach another trail intersection.  We will eventually turn right to cross the creek on another bridge and continue Trail #8’s loop, but first angle left to hike the short spur trail to Ogle Lake.  After a few hundred feet, you reach a playground beside the parking lot for Ogle Lake.  Walk through the parking lot and climb the dam to get a nice view of Ogle Lake.  Ogle Lake is a scenic body of water any time of year, but the deciduous trees lining the lake shore make it especially attractive in the fall.
Ogle Lake
Back at the trail intersection, cross the creek to begin the final segment of Trail #8.  The trail climbs out of the ravine on a winding gradual to moderate grade.  At 3.4 miles, you reach the top of a finger ridge where the short-cut trail enters from the right.  Angle left to descend steeply into another ravine.
The trail crosses another small creek via another small wooden footbridge before climbing on a moderate to steep grade.  At 3.9 miles, you reach the top of the hill and close the loop.  Turn left and retrace your steps 0.4 miles to the West Lookout Tower to complete the hike.  While you are here, check out the park’s Nature Center and its other two lookout towers, or try some of the park’s other short moderate trails.

Wednesday, June 12, 2019

Kickapoo State Recreation Area: Out and Back Trail (Blog Hike #749)

Trail: Out and Back Trail
Hike Location: Kickapoo State Recreation Area
Geographic Location: west of Danville, IL (40.13872, -87.73552)
Length: 6.4 miles
Difficulty: 4/10 (Moderate)
Last Hiked: May 2019
Overview: A lollipop loop through fields and forest on the east side of the Vermilion River.
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: In extreme eastern Illinois, take I-74 to US 150 (exit 210).  Exit and go east on US 150.  Take US 150 east 0.75 miles to the first traffic light, which is CR 1.  Turn left on CR 1.  Take CR 1 north 1.8 miles to Kickapoo Road and turn left on Kickapoo Rd.  Drive Kickapoo Rd. west 2.5 miles to the state park office, which is located on the left.  Park in the lot in front of the office.

The hike: The land of Kickapoo State Recreation Area has seen a lot of changes.   Between 500 and 1500 A.D. a Kickapoo Indian village was located where the Middle and Salt Forks of the Vermilion River meet, hence the park’s name.  A couple hundred years later, Indian Wars occurred south of Danville.  In 1819, European settlers discovered salt springs near the park.  Because salt was a valuable commodity on the frontier, this discovery led to an influx of European settlers.
            The salt springs supported the local economy until 1848, when salt production ceased.  Shortly thereafter, the land became one of the first areas to be strip mined for coal.  Early strip mining techniques devastated the natural landscape, and the scars of these mines are still visible today.  The coal extraction left a wasteland of bare hills and polluted ponds, and in 1939 the State of Illinois purchased 1290 acres of scarred land from the United Electric Coal Company.  Subsequent purchases of adjacent farmland created the current total of 2842 acres.
            The park today stands as a major recreation center, a sharp contrast to its state 70 years ago.  The once polluted waters now sustain life and provide plenty of fishing opportunities.  Two of these ponds even offer scuba diving, a rarity in a landlocked state like Illinois.  The park’s other amenities include picnic areas, a stable and many miles of trails for horseback riding, and a 6.5 mile mountain bike trail system.
            The park also offers 16 miles of trails open to hiking.  Many of the trails are 1 mile long or less, but a few options are longer.  The Riverview Trail starts at the picnic area between the river and Clear Lake and offers an easy 2 mile stroll along the Middle Fork of the Vermilion River, which bisects the park on a north to south course.  Two trails start at the park office: the Clear Lake and Out and Back Trails.  Both trails make for nice hiking, but this hike features the 6.4 mile Out and Back Trail, the park’s longest trail.
Trailhead near park office
            From the park office, walk north past the maintenance building and cross the main park road to arrive at a wooden sign announcing the beginnings of the Clear Lake and Out and Back Trails.  Both trails are rated rugged due to their length, but the difficulty of the terrain makes these trails no more strenuous than average.  Both trails start by heading right from the sign in a narrow strip of woods between the park road on the right and a steep hill to the left.  The Out and Back Trail is marked with white blazes and white signs bearing the hiker symbol.  Distance markers for the Out and Back Trail are posted every 0.25 miles, and the first of these wooden signs is reached while you are still adjacent to the park road.
4.75 mile marker on Out and Back Trail
            The trail curves left to follow and then cross the paved access road for Emerald Pond.  The Clear Lake and Out and Back Trails part ways here.  The Clear Lake Trail continues to parallel the access road before heading downhill toward Inland Sea and Clear Lake, and adding it to this hike forms an 8.6 mile double loop.  This description stays right to remain on the Out and Back Trail.
            At 0.4 miles, the Out and Back Trail crosses the access road and intersects the dirt/gravel entrance road for the group camp.  The camp road is gated, so vehicles are unlikely to be encountered.  Note that a small parking lot just outside the gate could serve as an alternate starting point for the Out and Back Trail.  Turn left on the camp road, which in another 0.1 miles arrives at the primitive group camp.  Where a sign that says “restrooms” points right, stay left.  At 0.75 miles, you exit the rear of the group camp on a two-track dirt trail.
Hiking through old farm field
            0.9 miles into the hike, the trail enters an abandoned farm field and makes the first of many intersections with the horse and mountain bike trails.  All of these intersections are well-marked with several signs.  If you have not seen a trail marker for a few minutes, you probably made a wrong turn.
            The trail climbs gently through the hot and sunny field, which teems with life of the insect and bird varieties.  Pass a wastewater area on the left; the smell was not horrific on my visit.  At 1.2 miles, the trail passes through a fence and curves left, continuing in a narrow strip of trees that once separated two farm fields.
Hiking along a wooded ravine
            The trail now heads west toward the Middle Fork of the Vermilion River and very slowly loses elevation.  This section of trail passes through some nice forest that features lots of oak and maple trees with a few sycamore trees, and it is my favorite part of this hike.  Soon the first steep ravine comes into view on the left.  At 1.8 miles, come to a bench overlooking this ravine.  This bench is the only bench on this hike, and therefore it makes a good place to rest.
            Just past 2 miles, the trail intersects a gravel road, where you need to turn left.  This point marks the beginning of a major trail reroute.  When I first hiked here in 2004, the Out and Back Trail exited this road to the left and crossed the river on an old concrete and steel bridge, but the bridge was demolished in 2006.  A short optional loop still exits left here, but the main Out and Back Trail heads northwest on the gravel road.
Start of main loop
            At 2.2 miles, you reach the start of the main loop.  For reasons to be seen later, I recommend hiking the loop clockwise.  The reroute is not signed as well as the route you have hiked so far, but to hike the loop clockwise you need to angle left to leave the gravel road and begin a mowed-grass trail.  If you reach some picnic tables beside a pond called Stump Pond, you are hiking the loop counterclockwise and need to backtrack a few hundred feet.
Stump Pond
            The mowed-grass trail descends moderately to enter the Middle Fork of the Vermilion River’s floodplain.  The grass was a few inches high on my visit, but the trail was easily discernible and passable.  Where a spur trail exits left to reach the river, stay right to remain on the main loop.  The trail makes a winding right-curving arc through a prairie.  The river on the left is not visible when trees have leaves, but some steep bluffs towering just beyond the river can be seen all year.
Wetland at end of gravel road
            At 3.4 miles, the trail comes out beside a wetland in an area that had recently been planted with tall, thick prairie grass on my visit.  To continue, you need to turn right and wade through the grass to reach a gravel road.  This turn is why you want to hike this loop clockwise: it would be very hard to find if you were hiking down the road.
            The rest of the loop follows the old gravel road as it heads gradually up and out of the old strip mine.  Near 4 miles, you pass some picnic tables beside Stump Pond to your left just before closing the loop.  Retrace your steps 2.2 miles to return to the park office and complete the hike.  While you are here, consider adding on the Clear Lake Trail or the Riverview Trail if you have the time and energy to do so.